Rated 5/5
Visited: 06/17/2024
Difficulty Accuracy: Spot On
Great Trail! This was the second time for several of our party, which consisted of 6 septuagenarian Boomers and a 30ish Millennial, traveling in two stock Tacomas and a 1974 CJ5 Jeep.
Just want to pass on some learned knowledge about the water crossing at Upheaval Wash.
A few days prior to our trip we received ominous emails from the National Park Service that said,
"At this time, we predict that driving the full loop from Shafer to Mineral Bottom will be impossible. Upheaval Wash is impassable to all vehicles when there is 4-5 feet of water on the road. Trucks and similar sized vehicles have been towed out of the flood waters. These tows can exceed $350/hour.
These conditions are not expected to improve before your trip. You can monitor conditions of the Green River at forecasted flows and current CFS levels. Flooding of 4 feet has been observed starting around 15,000 cfs on the gauge. Be sure to check those sites before proceeding with your trip. Currently, it is recommended trip be changed to out and back trips beginning and ending at the same trailhead.
If the road is flooded and you cannot pass, you must turn around. No off-road travel is permitted. Camping off permit under these circumstances is not allowed. Plan accordingly to bring extra fuel for out-and-back trips and expect long drive times. Check with other groups traveling towards you as they will have the most up to date information. "
The links to the sites where you can check the Flow Rates of the Green River in CFS (Cubic Feet Per Second) are:
Forecasted Flow Rates: https://www.cbrfc.noaa.gov/dbdata/station/flowgraph/flowgraph_hc.html?id=GRVU1&ptype=1&linear_flow=0
Current Flow Rates: https://waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/uv?site_no=09328920&legacy=1
Since we had done the White Rim and crossed the water on our prior trip on June 3, 2022 we were able to look up the Observed Flow Rate for that date and time and compare it to the Forecasted Flow Rate for the planned date and time of crossing on this trip, June 17, 2024. The rates were similar, and the forecasted flow rate was dropping. That suggested that the water level would drop by the time we reached Upheaval Wash to allow us to cross on this trip. We found out later that the actual Observed Flow rate on June 17, 2024 was less than the Forecasted Flow Rate.
We talked to the backcountry rangers at the Island In The Sky Visitor Center. on the day before we hit the trail. They were very skeptical that we would be able to cross the water. There was also a sign at the start of the White Rim Road saying that the road was impassable and warning that if we should have to turn around and drive all the way back to Shaffer we would not be able to spend an extra night on the trail without a camping permit for that date. We were not dissuaded.
We spent the first night at Murphy's Camp. The next day we only met one other party on the trail coming the other way. They had reached the water at Upheaval Wash but were unable to cross because it was too deep. Because our research had shown that the water was dropping and we planned to cross the next morning, we continued on. We reached Hardscrabble Camp, and drove to the crossing to check out the situation. We sent out our millennial in a bikini to check the depth, and it was clear that at that time it was too deep to cross. But the wet bank showed that the water level was indeed dropping. We put a stick at the water line and came back several hours later to judge the rate that the level was going down. We were encouraged that we would be able to cross.
The next morning we again sent out our Millennial scout and found that the water depth was low enough and we crossed without incident. We had learned on the previous trip that the best strategy for crossing the water was to go directly across and then turn right at the opposite bank, keeping all of the tires in the water, and drive around the bank to the exit. This minimizes the time spent in the deepest part of the channel. Don't drive up the middle of the channel to get to the exit ramp.
I have attached a link to a video showing both our 2022 and 2024 crossings, and jpgs of the relevant Green River Flow Rate Charts.
A few closing comments about this:
On the Forecasted Flow Rate link, be sure to click the "FLOW" button on the chart so that it shows CFM
Be aware that the FLOW RATE of the Green River is directly related to the water LEVEL in Upheaval Wash, but it is NOT directly related to the DEPTH of the water, because the bottom changes too. For example, the Observed Flow Rate on our June 3, 2022 crossing was 15705 CFS and the Observed Flow Rate on June 17, 2024 was 13477 CFS. But on both crossings the water level came up to just below the tops of our tires. This suggests that although the FLOW RATE was less on June 17, 2024 the bottom was lower on June 17, 2024 than it was on June3, 2022. The lesson is, always send someone out to check the depth.
Amusingly, right at the water crossing there was a signboard lying on the ground with a notice that there would be a Ranger Talk at 7:30. Sticking out from under the signboard was a sign that had fallen off the signboard that warned you that the route was impassible and telling you to turn around!
This is an awesome trail. Have a great trip.